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First Dates: a tender relic from our now painfully distant past

Remember hugging? There’s a strange appeal in watching TV filmed in the ‘before times’, under Fred Sirieix’s vigilant eye

First Dates is back! And you’ll be pleased to know it is exactly the same as before. Fred Sirieix still says “Ooh la–la!” when a glamorously made-up woman turns up in a dress to eat dinner with a man in a T-shirt. Merlin is always there behind the bar, a Dracularian butler trapped in the body of bartender, asking what you do for a living. There are all the waiting staff, looking unerringly attractive throughout, primed as if to always descend into a slithering orgy as soon as Fred blows his ceremonial French sex whistle.

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